50 Things to Know Before Moving to Rural Latin America

AKA Things to Remember About Ecuador

We wrote this list in my travel journal while sharing one last cerveza at our favourite beach cabana before leaving small town Ecuador this November. It is composed of any words of wisdom we would have given ourselves or others before coming, and is in no particular order or importance.

1. Always bring sunglasses

2. Buy the chapstick with SPF - you will end up needing it.

3. If red meat is your thing, eat as much as you can before coming.

4. Always have a mosquito net (or double mosquito net if you’re a couple) handy just in case.

5. If you want good strong tea, especially black tea, bring it with you - The Horchata in Ecuador is unique and delicious, but not all day every day.

6. Although mototaxis are only 0,50$, you get a better experience walking - You never know who you will run in to or what random conversations you will have.

7. Headbands - your new best friends.

8. Don’t expect to use your blow-dryer or straightener – it’s not worth it.

9. Don’t bother bringing a shoe collection – flip flops are all you need.

10. Bring sea sickness medication with you, just in case.

11. Go invest in some antibacterial soap, regardless of what they give you.

12. Bring enough Shampoo, Conditioner, and hair products to last you.

13. If you don’t already have one, acquire a taste for fish and rice.

14. Beach wardrobe is now your everyday wardrobe.

15. Buy a volleyball/soccer ball when you first arrive.

16. If you don’t already, learn to love reggaeton.

17. Acquire a taste for beer – it will save you good money in the long run.

18. Have a collection of movies pre-downloaded on your hard-drive before coming, or make friends who have done so and swap.

19. Have a kindle or be ready to participate in book exchanges.

20. Take care of all your medical needs before coming.

21. Try out all “restaurants,” don’t fear them based on appearances.

22. Spend time getting to know the different food vendors at the market. When you find one you like, stick with them – things get cheaper.

23. Water bottles – go big and use it for everything.

24. Any makeup you can’t live without, bring a stockpile.

25. Wait for the hot water, it will come.

26. Don’t rely on the Internet for anything.

27. Ecuadorian planning – they’re punctual, just not prepared. Things will take time.

28. The ceviche is good, but if in Peru, have one last dish before coming.

29. Bring Bug Spray and Calamine, or buy them when you first arrive.

30. Learn to cook with only essential spices.

31. Get used to only buying what’s in season and cooking around it.

32. Learn to do a lot with a little.

33. Don’t underestimate the versatility of a frying pan and bread knife.

34. Don’t get your hopes up for coffee just because it’s grown there – still crap.

35. Make friends with locals.

36. Beer is your friend.

37. Cheese empanadas – NOT the same as in Peru.

38. Let your creativity flow.

39. Don’t get too caught up in the beach vibe – make goals and achieve them.

40. The party doesn’t get going until late – about midnight to 5am.

41. Go to the fish market as often as possible.

42. Accept offers as much as possibly – you never know where you’ll end up.

43. Volunteer – It’s an excellent way to experience the community in a way tourists can’t.

44. After-dark meat stick guy is your friend.

45. Don’t expect to find a mototaxi at night – they’re all drinking at the cabanas too.

46. Get used to the sounds of Latin American life – Don’t fight it. (music, dogs, horns, children, etc.)

47. Be flexible.

48. A moto is a family vehicle.

49. Bathrooms are few and far between – Get used to peeing outside and possible in public. It’s okay here.

50. Be prepared for your bowels to have a mind of their own.

The new jobs, the next move, and Costa Rica!

So Cena and I got the jobs. She is the new After-School Programs Coordinator and myself the new Program Coordinator and EFL (English as a Foreign Language) Teacher at the Sarapiqui Conservation and Learning Center (SCLC) of Puerto Viejo de Sarapiqui, Costa Rica.

Really we will be members of a core team of 5-6 people that run the Center, meaning like every small organisation, we will have a hand in almost everything. Cena doing some EFL teaching, myself helping with the Scholarship Program, both of us helping with the Youth Group. Not to mention helping take turns cooking staff lunches during the week and acting as liaisons with the community.

"The SCLC focuses its efforts in four areas — environmental education, community development, conservation, and tourism — in order to help form future environmental leaders, raise the organizational capacity of local communities, promote sustainable land use, and connect tourists to the local community."

It's located in a rural, less developed region of Costa Rica that despite being only around 100km away from San José, the capital, and less than 200km away from the Caribbean, it was more or less completely secluded from the economy and development of the rest of the country until the highway was built reaching the area in 1957. The town of Puerto Viejo de Sarapiqui wasn't on the map until later when it became a port town, as it has a prime location where the Sarapiqui River and San Juan River meet. 

Have I mentioned that it's also located in the Tropical Rainforest and immediately next to several National Parks and Biological Protected zones that hosts 521 vascular plant, 194 bird, 36 mammal, 17 fish, and 36 amphibian species? Apparently "poison frogs, toucans, iguanas, and sloths are regular visitors (and residents) to the center grounds." 

Despite all this however, Sarapiquí is the sixth poorest county in Costa Rica. Which is the reason for the existence of the SCLC, which has a prime location right next to the Sarapiqui River.

So basically Cena and I are heading in to the jungle and back in to rural South America! And we could not be happier. From all estimates Puerto Viejo de Sarapiqui seems to be about the size and development as Puerto Lopez in Ecuador, but far greener. After being in this metropolis ('city' just doesn't seem to cut it anymore) of 9 million in Colombia for about a month now, we are absolutely ready to leave. We do really enjoy being able to go for coffee at Juan Valdez for one of the best cappuccinos of life (and decaf too!), then a microbrewery beer, then sushi, but just the environmental stress of living in a city like this is really getting to us. I hate having to be on crowded, hot, makes-me-nauseous public transport for over 45 minutes just to get to a mall to get more contacts. Or having to fight hords of people at the grocery store. Thank god we have a little tienda right next to us that we can get most of our fruits and veggies from. Or having to plan out in advance an afternoon if we want to go sit in a park or on a bench somewhere. I miss living in rural Latin America and am very excited for this next move. Not to mention I am very excited to no longer be freezing with two jackets at 2600m above sea level, but be in the 30C heat of the jungle, at an altitude about the same as Redvers, SK. We haven't booked our flights yet, but the plan is January 15th. 

So with that in mind Cena and are going over our list we made while having a beer at a cabana on the beach the night before leaving Ecuador. As we really had no idea what we were getting ourselves in to when we moved to small town Latin America, we made ourselves (and others) a reminder list before leaving of Things to Remember about Ecuador, or rather, Things to Know Before Moving to Rural Latin America. 

(see next blog post for list)

Living in Bogota - More Western than you would think

Right now I'm sitting on the loveseat of our very European feeling studio apartment. It's about 3:30 in the afternoon, we've just finished lunch, and I'm still sipping my glass of wine. Not that Colombians are wine drinkers; we are. That is one of the aspects of Spanish culture they have not kept. They generally stick to their Rum, spirits, beer and coffee. They generally start their days later, eat lunch in the middle of the afternoon, and have supper when some Canadians are heading to bed. They party hard, cherish their coffee, and are constantly seen walking the streets

This blog is solely based on first-impressions, but Bogotá Colombia is also one of the fairest skinned places we have been in Latin America. The percentage of the remaining indigenous population is minimal compared to other countries and many Colombians are direct descendants from Spain. There are of course still many darker skinned Colombians, however, there are also many more that resemble Shakira's skin tone, who holds are regular spot on the airwaves as a matter of national pride.

Not to mention that Bogotá is a very developed sprawling metropolis city of 9 million. Shopping everywhere, big bulk sized grocery stores, 24 hour drugstores with aisle after aisle of beauty, skin and hair care products. Coming here from rural Ecuador, is night and day.

In many aspects, it no longer feels like we're in Latin America, compared to almost every other place we have been so far. Then again, I suppose this is what happens when you steamroll a Spanish colony with globalization. It feels like sprinkles of Latin American flavour in a Western city. Practically anything you watch on TV in Canada you could see on TV here. There is of course a ton of Latin, Salsa, Rumba, and Reggaeton music, but there is also an extraordinary amount of English North American music. You can buy John Frieda from the drugstore, and a giant bag of Lays and Betty Crocker from the grocery store. There is hot water from the shower at your disposal around the clock (although still not from any other tap), drinkable tap water, and internet that functions at Western speeds (although perhaps rural Western).
They have also imported Western notions of beauty and "fit". In rural Ecuador, almost all men have at least a bit of a ponch and most women are full-figured. No one seems to mind. In fact, the rule for clothes seems to be the tighter the better, at any age. And men have absolutely no problem taking their shirt off regardless of their size. However, you also have very little Western influence (compared to most other parts of the world). There are little to no advertisements whatsoever, aside from beer bottles and companies, and the only times I saw TVs they were playing football games. Here however, being "fit" is very much a trend, as it is in the West. They have managed to popularize it however with Ciclovia every Sunday (many of the main roads around the city close to cars and open up to cyclists, rollerbladers, skateboarders, and joggers, along with the grandstand aerobics class in the middle of an intersection. But the style still reflects a strong Western influence.

There are a few things that this country boasts however. One of which is the clearest Spanish accent of any other Spanish speaking country in the world. This, combined with the Intensive Spanish classes Cena and I started on Monday, mean that we can actually clearly understand people on the street, radio announcers, and the TV. It doesn't just sound like background noise anymore as it did in Ecuador.

The second and perhaps most important, being their coffee. Colombia is reputed for having some of the best coffee in the world, and it's absolutely no lie. But I'll come back to this crucial feature. Other than this however, our 12 km 4 hour walk around part of the city Sunday revealed that while the city itself is beautiful as it ressembles various Spanish cities, most of it is littered with trash, graffiti, and police. Not to mention that Bogotá is apparently the 9th most densely populated city in the world, just behind Chennai, India and just before Shanghai, China. This means that at rush hour, the streets are mad. And not just for cars I mean. I have honestly never had to walk through that many people in my life, other than on the floor at concerts or festivals. But here in Bogotá it's the norm. Even doing some grocery shopping after class at around 1:30pm the streets are absolutely filled with people.

Cena and I are very happy to be here taking Spanish lessons. To have our own apartment with hot water and internet, the possibility to further explore the city and its culinary gems and food carts, along with the travel opportunities later on to other parts of Colombia. I do miss Ecuador though with it's markets, it's simplicity, it's beaches and music, and can't wait to keep travelling North. The one big saving grace is Juan Valdez. (Along with the access here to fabulous international beers that I miss from Europe)

Juan Valdez is essentially Colombia's Starbucks, except a thousand times better. Not only is the coffee affordable (about 1,50$ for a small cappuccino), but the coffee is strictly 100% Colombian. However, the biggest difference between Juan Valdez and most corporate coffee chains, is that the shops are not owned by investors but rather by the 560 000 coffee-growing shareholders. Oh, not to mention the coffee is fucking delicious. One of the best cappuccinos I've had in my life. However, as it directly aimed to replicate the success of other coffee chains around the world, it does eerily ressemble Starbucks.